Ive heard lots of talk about using lighting as a heat source for Hermit Crabs, some positive and some negative.
Im aware of the dangers in using high wattage lights as these are dangerous to our hermie friends but I have heard of some lights that emit UV rays that can benefit a Hermit Crab, has anyone got any ideas of brands or names of these lights? A few brand names have been mentioned in other forums I am in but I cant seem to get them here in Australia, I may have to ask around online and see if I can have them ordered in? I have seen one at a pet store but the wattage is too high, I personally think some form of light would be good as I have taken them outside in my outdoor crabitat / terrarium it was a warm day but raining lightly for a 10 minute holiday and they seemed to love it, I also feel they are being deprived of light, any ideas? thanks for listening,
Kellie
Heating & Lighting
-
- Zygote
- Posts: 25
- Joined: 17 Nov 2004, 00:37
- Location: McCrae, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Heating & Lighting
Come say G'Day at my BLOG: http://www.hyperdigimum.blogspot.com
- Wai
- Administrator
- Posts: 2908
- Joined: 01 Nov 2004, 14:12
- Gender: Male
- Hermit crabs: 6
- Total gallons: 45
- Total tanks: 1
- Location: Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
I would stay away from bright light heat sources (dim lights are fine). If you're planning to keep the light on all day, it'll confuse the day and night time for your hermies. I think they'd like night time too, not just light all day. Poor hermies in the pet shop... they get no rest at all while being treated like trash until someone adopts them.
- Julia_Crab
- Zoea I
- Posts: 106
- Joined: 02 Dec 2004, 16:11
- Location: Oakland, CA
- Contact:
Heat & Light
Hey, Kellie!
I'm following Bill's advice and have installed overhead heat and light in my crabitat. My tank is 120 gallons and my house is too cold. The UTHs weren't doing anything, and my crabs were on the brink of hibernating.
I am running a total of 90 watts of daylight fluorescent (UVA/UVB) and reptile heat bulb during the day, with an optional 65 watts of moonglow in case it's colder than usual, and a total of 125 watts of moonglow for at night (three bulbs that can be independently switched on and off for heat control). I had to install a TropicAire Mister to keep the humidity from dropping slowly but steadily, but now everything is staying at 74-76 degrees F, and between 75 and 80 percent humidity. ESU makes great combo light fixtures that have individual switches and cords for each bulb.
My eccies and ruggies were in heaven yesterday when I got the lights installed! They were out perching, and climbing, and eating, and bathing, and one of them even basked directly under the sunlamp for 30 minutes. Some people have trouble with eccie molts, and I can't help wondering if it has something to do with them not getting a proper simulated day/night cycle. Supplemental lighting should make their captivity more like living in the wild.
If you are careful, and make sure to have a method of boosting humidity, overhead lighting can be fabulous! Telling newbies not to use overhead heat/light is a good idea, but once you know what you are doing, one should innovate. UTH is not sufficient in a cold climate!
Bill, despite the fact that many people seem to find exception with him, is a clever, clever guy, and he will be glad to make recommendations to you based on the size of your crabitat and the temp of your house. There is a thread going on Yahoo hermies about this. If you post to it about your heat/light requirements, Bill will answer.
Conventional wisdom has its place, but innovation drives the world forward!
Kerie
I'm following Bill's advice and have installed overhead heat and light in my crabitat. My tank is 120 gallons and my house is too cold. The UTHs weren't doing anything, and my crabs were on the brink of hibernating.
I am running a total of 90 watts of daylight fluorescent (UVA/UVB) and reptile heat bulb during the day, with an optional 65 watts of moonglow in case it's colder than usual, and a total of 125 watts of moonglow for at night (three bulbs that can be independently switched on and off for heat control). I had to install a TropicAire Mister to keep the humidity from dropping slowly but steadily, but now everything is staying at 74-76 degrees F, and between 75 and 80 percent humidity. ESU makes great combo light fixtures that have individual switches and cords for each bulb.
My eccies and ruggies were in heaven yesterday when I got the lights installed! They were out perching, and climbing, and eating, and bathing, and one of them even basked directly under the sunlamp for 30 minutes. Some people have trouble with eccie molts, and I can't help wondering if it has something to do with them not getting a proper simulated day/night cycle. Supplemental lighting should make their captivity more like living in the wild.
If you are careful, and make sure to have a method of boosting humidity, overhead lighting can be fabulous! Telling newbies not to use overhead heat/light is a good idea, but once you know what you are doing, one should innovate. UTH is not sufficient in a cold climate!
Bill, despite the fact that many people seem to find exception with him, is a clever, clever guy, and he will be glad to make recommendations to you based on the size of your crabitat and the temp of your house. There is a thread going on Yahoo hermies about this. If you post to it about your heat/light requirements, Bill will answer.
Conventional wisdom has its place, but innovation drives the world forward!
Kerie
Kerie (aka Julia Crab)
Member, Crustacean Society, 2005
See my
crabs:
http://crabstreetjournal.com/photos/ent ... ?cat=10239
Like them? My
store:
http://www.cafepress.com/crabhappy
Feed your crabs:
http://www.epicurean-hermit.com
Member, Crustacean Society, 2005
See my
crabs:
http://crabstreetjournal.com/photos/ent ... ?cat=10239
Like them? My
store:
http://www.cafepress.com/crabhappy
Feed your crabs:
http://www.epicurean-hermit.com
- Onyxsun1
- Zygote
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 13 Dec 2004, 09:11
- Location: VA USA
- Contact:
Keries light setup
Hey Kerie,
I was reading about your new overhead light set up. You mentioned three indepent light sources each with their own on and off switches. Question? Is this like an aquarium hood light set up or are you using individual lamps for your crabitat? I someday am going to get a much bigger aquarium and it will be kept in a cooler part of the house so I am trying to glean as much information before I attempt something of this nature. I do not want to overdo or underdo my crabitat and dont want to put my little hermies lives in danger. Thanks for any information you provide.
Kathy....
I was reading about your new overhead light set up. You mentioned three indepent light sources each with their own on and off switches. Question? Is this like an aquarium hood light set up or are you using individual lamps for your crabitat? I someday am going to get a much bigger aquarium and it will be kept in a cooler part of the house so I am trying to glean as much information before I attempt something of this nature. I do not want to overdo or underdo my crabitat and dont want to put my little hermies lives in danger. Thanks for any information you provide.
Kathy....
- Julia_Crab
- Zoea I
- Posts: 106
- Joined: 02 Dec 2004, 16:11
- Location: Oakland, CA
- Contact:
Special fixtures
Hi Kathy!
I use two fixtures that are designed specifically for reptile tank use. One has two incandescent fixtures that will hold up to 150 watts each, the other has two incandescent 150 watt fixtures, and one 15 watt fluorescent fixture. Each bulb has its own switch and cord so you can put them on timers individually. I run two day (one incandescent and the fluorescent for color rendering) and one or two night bulbs during the day depending on temperature, turn off the day incandescent and turn on the remaining moonglow bulbs (leaving the fluoro on) for 30 minutes or so to simulate sunset, then turn off the fluorescent bulb. The great thing about these fixtures is that you can change the bulbs out to higher or lower wattages for different house temperatures.
ESU and Fluker's both make these. I have found them at Petco and Pet Club, and an example also online at:
http://www.reptiledirect.com/index.asp? ... ProdID=150
After having run a simulated natural night/day cycle for a couple of weeks now, I am utterly convinced that it is extremely beneficial to crabs. My crabs used to come out any old time late at night, but it would vary like they were confused as to what time it was. Now, my eccies run around all day, alternately basking and hiding, and my other crabs come out soon after "nightfall." They are more active because the air temperature in my tank is higher, staying between 74 and 78 degrees in the daytime and 70 to 74 degrees at night.
Bill has a gap in his glass lid that his lights sit over, so he uses lower wattages than I do. Because of my tank construction, I have my fixtures sitting on top of glass panels, so I need higher wattages to get through the glass.
The only issue with overhead lighting is that humidity tends to drop. I have compensated for this with a TropicAire Terrarium Mister. It circulates humid air by way of a pump into the tank by a perforated tube. I have to use two of them because my tank is so big, but I've got it so the humidity stays between 75 and 80%.
You can get a mister at:
http://www.kazabee.com/html/reptile_accessories.html
I got mine at Petco, but Bill at Kazabee sells them $5 cheaper. And he's a bigtime crabber, the guy who got me on this lighting crusade in the first place.
The problem with UTHs is that the heat doesn't get to the air, and sometimes barely warms the substrate. Crabs will hibernate if the temperatures go below 68 degrees. They'll be happier, healthier, and more active if you can keep their substrate AND air temperatures in an acceptable range for them at all times.
Good luck, and if you have more questions, Bill posts to Yahoo hermies. He likes to answer questions.
Kerie
I use two fixtures that are designed specifically for reptile tank use. One has two incandescent fixtures that will hold up to 150 watts each, the other has two incandescent 150 watt fixtures, and one 15 watt fluorescent fixture. Each bulb has its own switch and cord so you can put them on timers individually. I run two day (one incandescent and the fluorescent for color rendering) and one or two night bulbs during the day depending on temperature, turn off the day incandescent and turn on the remaining moonglow bulbs (leaving the fluoro on) for 30 minutes or so to simulate sunset, then turn off the fluorescent bulb. The great thing about these fixtures is that you can change the bulbs out to higher or lower wattages for different house temperatures.
ESU and Fluker's both make these. I have found them at Petco and Pet Club, and an example also online at:
http://www.reptiledirect.com/index.asp? ... ProdID=150
After having run a simulated natural night/day cycle for a couple of weeks now, I am utterly convinced that it is extremely beneficial to crabs. My crabs used to come out any old time late at night, but it would vary like they were confused as to what time it was. Now, my eccies run around all day, alternately basking and hiding, and my other crabs come out soon after "nightfall." They are more active because the air temperature in my tank is higher, staying between 74 and 78 degrees in the daytime and 70 to 74 degrees at night.
Bill has a gap in his glass lid that his lights sit over, so he uses lower wattages than I do. Because of my tank construction, I have my fixtures sitting on top of glass panels, so I need higher wattages to get through the glass.
The only issue with overhead lighting is that humidity tends to drop. I have compensated for this with a TropicAire Terrarium Mister. It circulates humid air by way of a pump into the tank by a perforated tube. I have to use two of them because my tank is so big, but I've got it so the humidity stays between 75 and 80%.
You can get a mister at:
http://www.kazabee.com/html/reptile_accessories.html
I got mine at Petco, but Bill at Kazabee sells them $5 cheaper. And he's a bigtime crabber, the guy who got me on this lighting crusade in the first place.
The problem with UTHs is that the heat doesn't get to the air, and sometimes barely warms the substrate. Crabs will hibernate if the temperatures go below 68 degrees. They'll be happier, healthier, and more active if you can keep their substrate AND air temperatures in an acceptable range for them at all times.
Good luck, and if you have more questions, Bill posts to Yahoo hermies. He likes to answer questions.
Kerie
Kerie (aka Julia Crab)
Member, Crustacean Society, 2005
See my
crabs:
http://crabstreetjournal.com/photos/ent ... ?cat=10239
Like them? My
store:
http://www.cafepress.com/crabhappy
Feed your crabs:
http://www.epicurean-hermit.com
Member, Crustacean Society, 2005
See my
crabs:
http://crabstreetjournal.com/photos/ent ... ?cat=10239
Like them? My
store:
http://www.cafepress.com/crabhappy
Feed your crabs:
http://www.epicurean-hermit.com