He just hides all the time now

[shannonrenee4]

I have two hermit crabs. For over a week now, one of them has been curled up in this little hole in their hideaway. I never see him come out. I've checked several times and he is still alive, he's just not coming out. I have a humidity and temperature gauge, so I know that's fine, and the other crab is extremely active. I just don't know what's wrong with this little guy. He's always been the more timid of the two, he immediately retreats into his shell when we open the cover and he has hid in this spot before. (But for much shorter periods of time).

However, I've had them for nearly two months now and it's only recently that he's started completely withdrawing. I just don't know what to do. If he was molting, wouldn't he bury himself?

[ladybug15057]

Not all hermies will burrow to molt, some do surface molts. You mention you have temp and humidity gauges, did you calibrate/test your humidity gauge to see how accurately it is reading? Have you checked your substrate temp for a warmish and cooler side?

[shannonrenee4]

I'm not quite sure how to calibrate it, but I will have my brother come over later and take a look at it. (He has more experience with reptile care). However, it seems to react accurately to temperature and humidity inside the tank vs. outside the tank. Also, the other hermit crab is very active and shows no sign of stress. I will double check and purchase another gauge if necessary but I can't see why my other little guy would be doing so well if there was a problem with humidity or temperature. Unfortunately, I do not have a thermometer for the substrate. The most I can tell you is the sand feels relatively warm throughout the tank. I've been using a reptile heating/lighting hood to heat the tank.(With 'day' and 'night' lights) The light is only on one side of the tank at a time, so I would think the other side's substrate would be a bit cooler? The lights seem to be working well and I do not want to purchase an undertank heater unless it is necessary. What do you think?

I just thought of something though. My tank's temperature usually runs consistently on the higher side of the temp scale for hermit crabs, usually between 78 and 80 degrees. (Although it drops down to the 74-76 degree range at night). Do you think it could be bothering him?

[ladybug15057]

Hermies are similar to humans in the respect that some humans can tolerate more than others. Buying another humidity guage may not be the answer, because majority of the time they are always off when we buy them and sometimes up to 20% which is quite a bit when one is keeping a creature who depends so much on a correct humidity percentage to breath through their modified gills. The gauges should be kept at substrate level, and if one only has one gauge it should be kept towards the middle of the tank for a more 'central' reading away from water sources. Several years ago in a 10 gal tank iso I had, I had noted a 12-15% difference in the humidity level between the top of the tank and substrate level. (humidity and warmth both rise)
For the substrate temp for now you can use the inner part of your wrist. (where one tests a baby bottle at) There should be a warmish side to the substrate as well as a cooler side. Hermies are cold blooded creatures and must have these choices to regulate their body temp. Do you offer an ocean/sea water source, and if so what brand do you offer?
As for your little one being a little on the shy/lethargic side, he may also be in premolt.

[shannonrenee4]

Wow I can't believe humidity gauges are off that much. Thanks for the info, I never even considered it. Though, when looking at that giant margin of error, I worry my humidity may be too high rather than too low. The cocoa mat covering the back inside of the tank absorbs water very well and I have crab soil (which also holds moisture well) mixed in with the sand. I keep two sea sponges in there, and mist when humidity gets closer to the lower side. (Although I've learned to be more conservative with the spraying because it can raise humidity too much). My gauge is in the middle of the tank, but after my recent reorganization, the water dishes have ended up underneath the gauge. I'll switch things around again now that I'm aware it could cause inaccurate humidity readings. Thanks.

I checked the substrate. I would say 3/5ths of the tank is a warmer temperature, while the 2/5ths of it on the darker side is a bit cooler.
Yes, I have both fresh and saltwater. I use Zoo Med's Salt Water Conditioner Part 2. (I stopped using tap water with the part 1 conditioner and just switched to Poland Springs, which I have read does not have chlorine).

(Also, my shy hermie has always seemed more lethargic, spending much more time buried and hiding. Do you think there is a possibility he may have some sort of illness since we first got him?)

Come to think of it, now that I know hermit crabs don't always bury themselves when molting, it seems very likely he may be going through a molt. He's been in there quite a while. I know I should move him to the Iso tank where it's safer if he is indeed molting. Now, here's the problem: he's hiding in a (fake) hollowed log that does not have a bottom to it. However, it has a hollow "branch" (which does have a bottom), and it's a tiny tunnel/hole just big enough for one little hermie to crawl in to. I have no idea how I'm supposed to get my hermit crab out of there. It's very hard place to get to within the log. (It took us some time to figure out the branch was even hollow. We went through quite a panic when we couldn't find the little guy).
I don't know, it just seems safer to leave him in there than attempt to get him out and into the isolation tank. I've never even seen the other hermit crab go in to the log, and I don't see how he could possibly get to the other one even if he wanted to. (He's a bit bigger and probably would not fit in the hole alone, let alone with another hermit crab already in there.)

What do you think?

[ladybug15057]

I agree about not trying to get him out if he has already found a place where he is comfy at. (as long as there isn't the chance too that he is stuck by being wedged into the hole) As for nobody being able to get into the hut, hermies are known to burrow, so if one wanted to they could burrow under the hut and pop up in the hut on the other side. Premolters/molters also have an odor that can be smelled too. If it were me, I would certainly be prepared just in case by having the glass off of a picture frame, or some form of hard plastic that you could section this area of the tank off to keep the others from getting to him. But none the less, leave him where he has chosen to be.
As for your humidity gauge being that far off... it might or might not be, but majority of the time they are off somewhat and 'can' be up to 20% sometimes. Here is a link as how to calibrate/test your gauge:

http://www.shroomery.org/38/Calibrate-Your-Hygrometer

Due to how sensitive they are, it is usually best to adjust ones readings accordingly as opposed to attempting to adjusting the gauge itself.

I'm happy to hear that you no longer use the ZooMed Part 1 to treat tap water. If one reads the label, one will note it states nothing about removing heavy metals from tap water. One should use a dechlorinator that removes chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals from tap water if one were to use tap water. (that being said, no tap water conditioner however removes fluoride from tap water)
May I strongly suggest to buy an ocean/sea mix sold specifically for salt water tanks? (not the freshwater mix, there is an element/mineral difference and hermies need the elements/minerals from the ocean/sea mix) It is not known whether the ZooMed part 2 is made from freshwater or ocean/sea water mix. ZooMed part 2 also has a yellow dye within it, something hermies do not need, and the dyes are highly questionable as to their safety with humans. If one mixes the ZooMed part 2 (as well as the hbh hermie salt) neither one register on a hydrometer. A hermie should be offered an ocean water source with a salinity level of 1.021-1.024 If they want a lesser salinity level, they will go to the fresh water pond and mix the 2 waters to their own ph (ion) want/need. A proper ocean/sea water source also helps them with their metabolism and the digestion of their food, and helps them to regulate their temperature as well. When ocean/sea water is mixed, it should be permitted to sit for at least 12-24 hours prior to offering to ensure the mix crystals have dissolved.
Using Poland water one would still need to use dechlorinator drops in the water prior to offering it to hermies. The only water that does not require dechlor drops is distilled (aka pure water in Aus.) bottle water. But one does need to offer a properly mixed ocean/sea pond due to the minerals that the distilled water is lacking. (as well as a proper well balanced diet)

[Chermo]

So I am going on a different note than everyone else who has answered you....

I am thinking that he is hiding and stuff because hermit crabs are like people and other animals and have different personalities. Some are very shy and some are not. I am saying I have 3 crabs and Orangy is my shy one who always retracts in her shell when I walk by, Soupy is one to dig and be down in the day and out at night and Kermi is my out going one who is out day and night and loves when I hold her. I am sure it is a personality thing not a tank conditions thing since your other crabs are fine.

[Hermie's rule]

When I first got a hermit crab, he'd be active, and then he'd get lethargic. I had one that never moved from the same spot in the coco hut for weeks at a time. I could tell that he had PPS. I had one other hermie that died from it after I disturbed him too much. So I left this one little guy alone. I waited and I waited. Finally he came out and his activity picked up and he was thriving again. Crisis over and gone. My hermie is still alive today and is my alpha male of the tat.